
Companion planting is one of gardening’s oldest and most debated traditions. It’s an age-old strategy, passed down through generations, based on the idea that certain plants can help each other by deterring pests, improving soil, or attracting beneficial insects.
But when you research this topic, you will find a lot of conflicting advice.
As an expert gardener, part of my job is to test these theories and, more importantly, to dig into the research to figure out what is proven science and what is just traditional garden wisdom.
I’ll share the most common traditional companions for potatoes, what science has actually validated (when available), and my final expert verdict on what you should actually do in your garden.
A quick note: This guide explores the “art” of companion planting. For the “science” of growing—soil prep, fertilization, and planting dates—please see my complete, research-backed guide on how to grow potatoes.
Potato Companion Planting: Quick-Reference Chart
For those who want a quick answer, here is my cheat sheet based on both tradition and science.
| Plant | Verdict | Why? (The Short Answer) |
|---|---|---|
| Tomatoes | BAD (The Worst!) | FACT: They share and spread Late Blight disease. |
| Bush Beans | GOOD | FACT: They add nitrogen to the soil. |
| Marigolds | GOOD | MYTH (for beetles), but FACT (for nematodes). |
| Asparagus | BAD | FACT: A simple logistics problem (you’ll dig it up). |
| Fennel | BAD | FACT: Stunts the growth of most plants (allelopathic). |
| Sunflowers | BAD | PROBABLE FACT: Stunts potato growth (allelopathic). |
| Cucumbers | BAD | PROBABLE FACT: They share diseases and compete for water. |
| Alyssum | GOOD | FACT: Attracts beneficial insects (hoverflies). |
2 Critical Myths vs. 2 Proven Facts
Let’s clear the air. My entire companion planting philosophy is built on these four points.
- Myth #1: “Marigolds will solve all your beetle problems.”
- The Fact: This is the most common myth. While I (and many gardeners) plant marigolds, the belief that their scent alone repels Colorado Potato Beetles is unproven. In fact, university studies (like those cited by the University of Minnesota) have found this specific claim to be untrue.
- My Verdict: I still plant them, but for their proven benefits: they are fantastic at attracting beneficial insects and are scientifically shown to suppress root-knot nematodes in the soil.
- Myth #2: “Tomatoes and potatoes are fine together if you watch them.”
- The Fact: This is the most dangerous myth for a new gardener. It’s not about competition; it’s about the catastrophic Late Blight disease. As research from Penn State confirms, both plants are highly susceptible. Planting them together creates a “blight hotspot” that can wipe out both crops. This is a non-negotiable scientific fact.
- Fact #1: “Bush Beans are a potato’s best friend.”
- The Verdict: This is 100% true and scientifically proven. Legumes (like bush beans) perform “nitrogen fixation,” pulling nitrogen from the air and storing it in their roots. This provides a gentle, scientifically-backed nutrient boost to your potatoes.
- Fact #2: “The ‘Bad Neighbors’ list is more important than the ‘Good’ list.”
- The Verdict: This is my core philosophy. Planting beans might give you a slightly better harvest, but planting tomatoes nearby can leave you with zero harvest. Avoiding the “Bad Neighbors” is my #1 priority, always.
Garden Layout (A Sample Plan)
Knowing what to plant is half the battle; knowing where to plant it is the key to success. You can’t just throw these plants in randomly. Here is a strategically-designed sample layout for a 3-row potato patch:
- Row 1 (The Outer Border): Plant a dense row of Marigolds. This creates your first “scent shield” and nematode barrier.
- Row 2: Your first row of Potatoes.
- Row 3 (The “Worker” Row): Plant a row of Bush Beans. These will grow quickly, fix nitrogen right at the potatoes’ root zone, and (according to tradition) help confuse beetles.
- Row 4: Your second row of Potatoes.
- Row 5 (The “Beneficials” Row): Plant a low-growing row of Sweet Alyssum or Thyme. This row becomes your “beneficial insect hotel,” attracting hoverflies and wasps to patrol your potato patch.
- Row 6: Your third row of Potatoes.
- Row 7 (The Second Border): Plant another border of Marigolds or Nasturtiums.
By using this “sandwich” method, every row of your potatoes is protected on both sides by a beneficial companion.
The Good Neighbors: A Deeper Look
These are the plants I actively use in my potato patch.
1. The “Soil Builders” (Bush Beans, Peas)
- Traditional Wisdom: Gardeners have long known that beans and potatoes grow well together.
- What Science Says: This is 100% proven. As legumes, bush beans and peas perform “nitrogen fixation,” enriching the soil for your nutrient-hungry potatoes.
- My Verdict: Fact. This is the most reliable companion planting strategy. Bush beans (not vining pole beans) are the best choice as they won’t sprawl over your potato plants.
2. The “Beneficial Insect” Crew (Alyssum, Marigolds, Nasturtiums)
- Traditional Wisdom: Aromatic flowers confuse pests (like the Colorado Potato Beetle) and lure them away.
- What Science Says: The results here are mixed.
- Marigolds: As noted above, the claim that they repel beetles is unproven. However, their ability to suppress soil nematodes is scientifically validated.
- Nasturtiums: These are a fantastic “trap crop” for aphids, luring them away from your potatoes. This is a widely accepted horticultural strategy.
- Sweet Alyssum: Its tiny flowers are proven to be a magnet for beneficial insects, like hoverflies and parasitic wasps, whose larvae devour pests.
- My Verdict: Fact (with a correction). Don’t rely on these flowers to repel beetles. Instead, plant them with the scientific goal of attracting a “bodyguard” army of beneficial insects.
3. The “Aromatic” Shield (Herbs like Thyme, Chives, Sage)
- Traditional Wisdom: Strong-smelling herbs like thyme, chives, garlic, and sage act as a “scent shield,” confusing pests and making it harder for them to find your potato plants.
- What Science Says: While this is a core principle of “intercropping,” the specific effect on potato pests is not well-studied. It’s a sound theory, but largely unproven in formal research.
- My Verdict: Traditional Wisdom. This is a low-risk, high-reward strategy. These herbs are useful in the kitchen, and they may help confuse pests. I use low-growing thyme as a beneficial groundcover.
4. The “Shade Lovers” (Lettuce, Spinach)
- Traditional Wisdom: Use the potato plants’ shade to your advantage.
- What Science Says: This isn’t about pests; it’s about “interplanting” to maximize space. This is a proven, efficient horticultural practice.
- My Verdict: Fact. Once your potato plants are tall, the soil at their base is shaded and cool. Planting “cut-and-come-again” lettuce or spinach here is a brilliant way to get a second harvest from the same space.
The Bad Neighbors: A Deeper Look
This is the most critical list. Avoiding these is non-negotiable.
1. Tomatoes (The #1 Enemy)
- My Verdict: Scientific Fact. As I mentioned in the “Myths” section, this is the worst mistake you can make. They are in the same family and share Late Blight, a devastating disease. My rule: I keep them on opposite ends of the garden.
2. Asparagus
- My Verdict: Logistical Fact. This is simple garden logic. Asparagus is a long-lived perennial. Potatoes require deep, aggressive digging to harvest. You will inevitably destroy your asparagus crowns. Keep them far apart.
3. Fennel
- My Verdict: Scientific Fact. Fennel is a known “allelopathic” plant, meaning it releases a chemical from its roots that inhibits the growth of most other plants, including potatoes. I give fennel its own pot, far away from everything.
4. Sunflowers
- My Verdict: Probable Fact. Like fennel, sunflowers are also known to have allelopathic properties that can stunt the growth of nearby potatoes. Given the risk, I always keep them separate.
5. Cucumbers & Melons
- My Verdict:Probable Fact (Strongly Avoid). This is a high-risk pairing.
- 1. Disease: Cucumbers are highly susceptible to blight, which can be shared with potatoes.
- 2. Competition: They are incredibly thirsty plants and their sprawling vines will compete heavily with your potatoes for water and nutrients, which is critical for tuber formation.
- It’s simply not worth the risk.
My Final Expert Advice
Companion planting is a fantastic tool, but it’s not magic. The foundation of a healthy harvest always comes back to the basics.
Your first line of defense is always starting with certified disease-free seed potatoes, providing consistent water and hilling, and ensuring your soil is loose and fertile. These are the non-negotiable, science-backed facts.
This is why I strongly recommend you read my complete, step-by-step guide to growing potatoes. It covers the essential foundation that makes all these companion planting “pro-tips” even more effective.






