The Ultimate Guide to Growing Potatoes in Containers (Even on a Balcony)

Growing a bountiful crop of potatoes doesn’t require a large garden—or any garden at all. If you have a sunny balcony, patio, or deck, you can get a fantastic harvest by growing potatoes in containers.

Container-grown potatoes are incredibly satisfying to grow. You have total control over the soil, watering, and nutrients, and the harvest is incredibly easy—no digging required. While yields may be somewhat smaller than in-ground gardens, the quality and convenience often make up for it.

This guide is my complete roadmap, designed to give you the specific knowledge and confidence to succeed with containers. The method is different from in-ground growing, and in many ways, it’s even easier.

Why Grow Potatoes in a Container? (The 3 Big Wins)

Before we start, you should know why this method is so effective:

1. Zero Digging, Easy Harvest: This is the best part. When your plants are ready, there’s no digging with a fork and accidentally spearing your best potatoes. You simply dump the container onto a tarp.
2. Perfect Soil, Every Time: You get to create the perfect soil. You’ll never have to battle heavy clay, rocks, or the soil-borne diseases that can plague in-ground patches.
3. Space Efficiency: It’s the ultimate “small space” crop. A few large pots or grow bags on a sunny balcony can yield a surprising amount of fresh potatoes.

The 4 Golden Rules for Container Success

To get a truly great harvest, you must master four concepts that are specific to containers.

1. Rule 1: Give Them Sun. This is the non-negotiable foundation. As the University of New Hampshire (UNH) Extension notes, potatoes require at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. A shady patio will not work.
2. Rule 2: Choose the Right Container. Go for size and drainage. A 10- to 15-gallon pot is ideal. Avoid containers that are excessively tall (over 3 feet), as they are very difficult to water evenly—the bottom stays soggy while the top dries out.
3. Rule 3: Choose the Right Variety. UNH notes that mid- or late-season varieties often perform best in containers, as they continue to form tubers over a longer period, taking full advantage of the container’s depth. Additionally, smaller “new potato” varieties tend to be more successful than large russet types.
4. Rule 4: Master “Hilling” with Soil. This is your primary technique. As the plant grows, you must continually add more soil to the pot, leaving just the top cluster of leaves showing. This is how you build a vertical harvest.

Step-by-Step: How to Plant Your Container Potatoes

Here is my proven, step-by-step process for a perfect container crop.

Step 1: Choose Your Container

Your container’s size directly determines the size of your harvest. Going too small is the #1 mistake I see beginners make.

• Size (The Rule): You need a minimum of 5 gallons of soil volume per seed piece. In my experience, 10- to 15-gallon containers are far better and more forgiving. This size hits the perfect balance for a good harvest.
• Drainage (Non-Negotiable): The container must have adequate drainage holes. Potatoes will rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. If you’re using a bucket or tote, drill multiple drainage holes in the bottom (the exact number depends on container size, but adequate drainage is essential).
• Container Options:
  • Fabric Grow Bags: These specialized containers are designed for container growing and provide excellent drainage.
  • Buckets & Totes: A 10-15 gallon plastic storage tote or a food-grade 5-gallon bucket works perfectly (just drill those holes!).
  • Nursery Pots: Standard large black nursery pots (10+ gallons) are cheap and effective.
  • Creative Options: Don’t be afraid to get creative. Barrels, large garbage bins, and even “potato towers” all work, as long as they have drainage.
• My Pro-Tips for Containers:
  1. Must Be Opaque: Your container must be opaque (non-see-through). This blocks sunlight, which is critical to prevent your potatoes from turning green and toxic.
  2. Shield Dark Pots: As UC ANR experts note, if your pot is a dark color (like a black nursery pot), shield it from intense afternoon sun. This prevents the soil and roots from getting dangerously hot.

Step 2: Choose the Right Potato Variety

This is a key decision for container success. My expert advice is to focus on two factors: maturity time and the “Golden Rule.”

• Maturity Time (The Expert’s Choice): While early-season varieties (70-90 days) are fast, mid- or late-season varieties (90-120+ days) are often better choices for containers because they continue forming tubers over a longer period, fully utilizing the container’s depth.
  • The “Why”: The vertical “hilling” method we use in containers (see Step 5) takes time. Mid- or late-season varieties will grow taller and form tubers over a longer period, taking full advantage of the deep soil you are building. Early-season types may stop growing before you’ve even filled the pot.
  • The “How”: Look for varieties labeled as “mid-season” or “late-season” at your garden center. Smaller “new potato” varieties also tend to perform well in containers.
• The Golden Rule: ALWAYS Use Certified Seed Regardless of your choice, always use certified seed potatoes from a reputable garden center or catalog. This is the #1 rule for success, as it guarantees disease-free, vigorous plants.
  • Critical Warning: Never plant grocery store potatoes. They are often treated with sprout inhibitors that prevent growth and can introduce devastating diseases into your soil. I explain this in detail in my complete guide to growing potatoes.

Step 3: Prepare Your Seed Potatoes

This process is straightforward, but getting the details right prevents rot and encourages vigorous growth.

1. To Cut or Not to Cut?
   • For Large Potatoes: For any seed potato larger than an egg, I slice it into 1.5- to 2-ounce pieces.
   • For Small Potatoes: Small “new” potato-sized seed potatoes can (and should) be planted whole.
2. Check for “Eyes”:
   • Make sure each cut piece has at least two healthy “eyes” (the small dimples where sprouts form).
3. My Pro-Tip:
   • If your potatoes have already pre-sprouted (chitted), remove all but the two strongest sprouts on each potato or piece. This channels all the plant’s energy into the most viable stems.
4. Cure the Cut Pieces:
   • This is a critical step to prevent rot. Let the cut pieces sit in a single layer at room temperature for 1 to 3 days.

(Curious about the “chitting” process or why we cure potatoes? I cover this in more detail in Step 3 of my guide “How to Grow Potatoes.”)

Step 4: Prepare Your “Perfect” Soil Mix

This is my #1 secret for successful container potatoes. Do not use garden soil.

• The Critical Warning: I cannot stress this enough. Garden soil is a poor choice for containers. It compacts easily, drains poorly (leading to rot), and can contain weed seeds and diseases. You must use a “potting mix.”
• My Expert Formula (The 50/50 Mix): For the perfect balance of drainage, moisture retention, and nutrients, I use this proven formula:
  • 50% Soilless Potting Mix: A peat-based or coco-coir-based mix. This provides a lightweight, sterile base that holds moisture while draining excess water.
  • 50% High-Quality Compost: This provides the essential nutrients your potato plants will need for a strong start.
• My Pro-Tip (The Bottom Layer): For even better results, try this technique:
  1. Place a 2-inch thick layer of shredded newspaper in the very bottom of your empty pot.
  2. Press it down firmly.
  3. Add your 50/50 soil mix on top of this layer.

Step 5: Plant Your Potatoes (The “Layering” Method)

This is where the magic happens. Unlike planting in the ground, container planting is a “bottom-up” process. We will fill the container in layers as the plant grows.

1. The Initial Planting:
   • Add Base Soil: Add about 4-6 inches of your “Perfect Soil Mix” to the bottom of the container (on top of your newspaper layer, if you used it).
   • Place Seed Potatoes: Place your seed potato pieces on top of this soil, sprout-side up.
   • Spacing: Give them room! Plan for about 5 gallons of soil volume per seed piece. For a 15-gallon grow bag, I plant 2-3 pieces. For a 10-gallon pot, 1-2 pieces.
   • Cover: Cover the seed potatoes with another 4-6 inches of your soil mix.
   • Water: Water the container thoroughly until water drains from the bottom.
2. The “Hilling” Process (Adding Layers): This is the most important part of container growing, and it’s a process confirmed by experts at the University of Illinois.
   • Wait for Growth: Be patient. In a few weeks, your potato sprouts will emerge from the soil.
   • When to Hill: Once the green foliage has grown several inches above the soil level, it’s time to hill.
   • How to Hill: Gently add another 4-6 inches of your soil mix (or straw/shredded newspaper) around the stems.
   • The Goal: The goal is to bury the stems, leaving only the top cluster of leaves showing. This is crucial: new potatoes grow from these buried stems.
   • Repeat: You will repeat this process as the plant continues to grow—typically you’ll be adding soil every few weeks throughout the growing season.
   • The Finish Line: Continue this process until the container is nearly full, leaving just enough space at the top for watering without overflow.

Step 6: Watering and Feeding Your Container

Your plants are now growing in a closed environment, which means they are 100% reliant on you for water and food.

My Watering Strategy

This is the #1 area where container gardeners fail. A container dries out infinitely faster than garden soil.

• The Golden Rule: Your goal is to keep the soil consistently moist, but never soggy.
• The “Finger Test”: Don’t guess. Water only when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
• How to Water: When you do water, water deeply. Apply enough water so that you see it escape from the bottom drainage holes. This ensures the entire pot is saturated.
• Frequency: On hot summer days, you may need to water every single day.

My Feeding Strategy

Potatoes are heavy feeders, and in a container, they will exhaust the nutrients in your compost within a few weeks. You must provide supplemental fertilizer.

• When to Start: Once the green shoots have emerged and are actively growing.
• How Often: I feed my container potatoes with a soluble fertilizer every 2-3 weeks.
• My Pro-Formula (The “Tuber” Mix): This is crucial for container success.
  • Avoid High-Nitrogen: Do not use a high-Nitrogen (N) fertilizer (like a lawn fertilizer). Nitrogen just grows green leaves at the expense of potatoes.
  • Focus on Phosphorus (P): For containers, you want a fertilizer with a higher middle number (Phosphorus) and third number (Potassium). Phosphorus is essential for tuber production.
  • The Ideal Formula: A balanced soluble fertilizer with a ratio like 5-10-10 is an excellent choice. (Organic growers can use a combination of fish emulsion, greensand, kelp meal, and bone meal).

Step 7: Harvesting Your Container Potatoes

This is the fun part, and it’s the biggest reward of container gardening.

1. When to Harvest Your Main Crop:
   • The Signal: You’ll know your main crop is ready when the plant’s foliage (leaves and stems) turns yellow and dies back.
   • Stop Watering: When you see the plant begin to yellow, stop watering it. This signals the plant to toughen up the skins for storage.
2. My Pro-Tip (Harvesting “New” Potatoes): You don’t have to wait for the plant to die!
   • The Signal: Once the plant has flowered, you can harvest your first tender “new” potatoes.
   • How to Harvest: Gently reach into the soil with your hands (this is easy to do in a loose container mix) and gently “rob” a few small, immature tubers. Leave the main plant in place to continue growing larger potatoes for your main harvest.
3. The “Big Dump” (The Easiest Harvest Ever): This is the best part, and it’s a simple method.
   • Once the foliage has completely died, you’re ready to harvest.
   • Spread a tarp on the ground.
   • Tip the entire container over onto the tarp.
   • Sift through the loose soil with your hands and watch the potatoes just roll out. It’s that easy—no digging, no pierced potatoes!
4. Post-Harvest Handling:
   • Be Gentle: Handle the newly harvested potatoes with care, as their skins are still tender.
   • Don’t Wash: Do not wash the potatoes. As UNH and UC ANR warn, washing can promote rot. Gently brush off excess dry soil.
   • Handle and Store: After harvesting, handle potatoes gently as their skins are still tender. Move them to a dry, dark area to prevent greening. Once you’re ready for long-term storage, keep them in a cool, dark place like a basement or root cellar.

FAQ: Container-Specific Problems

Congratulations! (And Your Next Step)

You’re now ready to grow a delicious, rewarding crop of potatoes in the smallest of spaces. The flavor of a potato harvested just 10 steps from your kitchen is something you’ll never forget.

Now that you’ve mastered containers, learn all the secrets for in-ground growing in my complete guide to growing potatoes!